Remember to account for the thickness of the handrail, in case your rail differs in size from your template board. The rails mount to the newels by drilling an access hole through the newel for a lag screw. The lag screw with washer is inserted through the newel and exits through a second smaller hole on the opposite side where it threads into a predrilled pilot hole on the end of the rail.
Use a socket with an extension to tighten the lag screw. The newel holes are covered with matching wood plugs. Pro Tip: Always visually inspect the clearances of your mounting hardware before driving screws in place. Before fastening, I realized the lag screws I had ordered were too long.
To prevent overdriving, I added extra washers beneath the head of the lag screw. Tool Tip: Lasers can make life easier. When positioning the handrail, I used the Bosch GLL crossbeam laser to project a laser line the along the baluster locations marks. The plumb laser line extended up to the underside of the handrail, providing a visual indication of where the balusters should intersect the rail. The laser line helped us guide any minor adjustments to the rail position, ensuring consistent alignment in all directions.
Smith offers a handy tool called the Telescoping Baluster Marking Tool. Extend the telescoping shaft up to the underside of the rail, center it beneath the rail, then plumb the tool using the bubble vial.
When satisfied with placement, pull down the spring-loaded head and release. A nail punch will drive into the handrail and create a divot for fastening the baluster. Repeat for each baluster as an easy way to mark placement and ensure plumb. The IronPro system allows you to screw on adjustable, pivoting collars at the top and bottom of the baluster locations to house the iron balusters. The adjustable nature of the system reduces the likelihood of placement error and makes fitting the balusters much faster and easier than traditional countersunk installation methods.
To use the IronPro System, first screw down the threaded metal discs at each baluster location. Cut the metal baluster to length on a chop saw.
Slide the base collar over the baluster shaft, and insert the upper tip of the baluster into the ball adaptor. Tilt the baluster down over the mounting plate, slide the base collar down over the threaded disc, then screw it firmly in place.
Tighten a couple of set screws, and baluster installation is complete. We installed the guard-rail at the upper landing against the half newel using L. We also installed a secondary rail along the lower stair flight using wall-mount brackets. After the rail system is installed, you should expect a lot of touchup work, such as adding wood plugs, filling nail holes with putty, caulking joints, etc.
But all the time, work and attention to detail will be worth it, once you show off your new stair rail installation to friends and neighbors. For more information on L. Smith Stair Systems, visit www. I have three young kids, and by removing the guardrail from the upper stair landing, I created a major safety hazard during this remodel.
My solution was to fashion a simple wood gate that closed off the entire landing during construction. The connections are all made with pan-head screws. Facebook Twitter Youtube Pinterest. More from EHT:.
Remove the Old Rail First step in handrail replacement is removal of the old system, which we took out when we replaced the treads. We used a reciprocating saw to cut the old rail off the existing newel. The balusters remained attached to the rail, and the whole assembly was lifted out as a single piece. Building codes have specific guidelines for stair construction, including rail height and baluster spacing.
But this rail does not necessarily qualify as a handrail, however, unless the it lies at 36 to 37 inches above the nose of the stair treads, and is contoured in a manner that allows for a firm hand grip. It is very common for a secondary handrail to be attached inside the guardrail system in order to meet the code requirements.
Handrails come in many forms, from simply dowel-like pine rods to elegant milled oak handrails designed to match the design of millwork guardrails. Although installation sounds easy—the railing simply needs to be 34 to 38 inches above the nose of the stairway treads—it can be more complicated than you think. The brackets that anchor the handrail need to be attached to studs or sturdy posts, which don't necessarily line up with the nose of the treads. Installing the brackets to wall studs or newel posts at a height that ensures the proper handrail height requires very careful measurement and positioning.
Use a stud finder to locate the studs at the handrail bracket locations. Typically, handrail brackets should be installed so that the handrail will be firmly anchored at intervals no more than 4 feet apart.
There should be brackets about 1 foot from the top and bottom of the handrail, as well as at least one in the center. The more brackets you use, the sturdier the handrail will be. After pinpointing the location of the studs that will anchor the handrail, use a level to mark vertical reference lines on the wall indicating the center of each stud. You can use painter's tape to mark the stud if you don't want to mark the wall with pencil.
With exposed stairways that are enclosed with balusters, you may be attaching the brackets to newel posts rather than to wall studs. Measure and cut the handrail to the desired length. For ease of gripping, it's typical for a handrail to extend slightly beyond the top and bottom steps by a distance equal to the width of a stair tread. If you wish, you can miter-cut the ends of the handrail so the cut ends will form a vertical edge that is perpendicular to the floor.
Using a level and tape measure, mark the wall at a point 36 inches above the nose of the stair treads, at the top, bottom, and middle of the handrail location. These reference marks will show the location of the top edge of the handrail. For proper height, it's important that you make these vertical measurements from the exact nose of the stair treads.
The height of the handrail can be adjusted slightly if you choose, but remember that the code-dictated height should be between 34 and 38 inches. Before starting your stair railing project, feel free to browse our collection of stair railing kits. These kits include everything you need to build a secure handrail. Each kit comes with step-by-step instructions , so you know exactly how to install the specific handrail you purchase.
Once you have a kit, gather the tools you need, and you will be ready to install a handrail in no time! Our experts will help you select the items you need to create your project. Types of Stair Railings As you can tell from the projects shown above, there are many different types of stair railings. A few of the major styles include: Wood Railings- Wood handrails are a standard railing system that is often utilized inside homes.
Cable Railings- A cable rail is a sleek and modern alternative to traditional handrails. The wire cables are typically run between metal posts and utilize tension for stability. Kee Klamp and Pipe Railings- For a modern and affordable option consider a handrail made from galvanized pipe and Kee Klamp fittings.
This type of handrail is traditionally used outdoors. If you need some inspiration here's an article with 14 Outdoor Handrail Designs to get you thinking. For a unique industrial chic design element, use these materials for your indoor staircases. Tools Needed to Install a Stair Railing Before installing your stair railing, you should make sure you have the right tools for the job.
How to Install a Stair Railing Now that you know more about stair railings, it is time to install your own! Step 2: Take Measurements It is crucial to get the correct measurements for your grab rail before installing anything. Step 5: Attach the Railing Depending on the style of handrail you choose, this step might change slightly. Projects Railing Simple Rail. This project is awesome! Love this project? Share it with your friends on your preferred social network.
Our Team is Here to Help. Contact a Consultant. Related Projects. Shopping Cart. Show Pricing Option available in footer. Adding to cart.
Added to cart Edit your cart. There was an error adding this item to your cart:.
0コメント