The drain trap assembly includes a U-shaped trap bend and a J-shaped trap arm. The trap bend fits onto the bottom of the tailpiece tee fitting, while the trap arm extends into the drain outlet in the wall. Assemble the trap bend and trap arm together loosely with a slip nut and washer. Slide a slip nut and washer onto the straight end of the trap arm. Push the trap bend up into the tee fitting on the tailpiece while sliding the trap arm into the drain outlet at the wall.
Adjust the trap pieces as needed to create the most direct path from the sink to the drain outlet. Make sure the trap arm has a slight downward angle toward the drain outlet. Mark and cut the trap arm as needed if it is too long to fit the space, then reinstall the P-trap assembly. Tighten all slip nuts with channel-type pliers. Again, don't overtighten. Confirm that the continuous waste pipe and the trap arm slope slightly downward in the direction of the water flow, then check all of the drain connections to make sure they are tight.
Make sure to face the trap the correct way, with the sharp bend below the tailpiece. Run water in both sink basins and check for leaks at each pipe joint. Tighten up any connections that leak. Conduct a final test by filling up each sink basin and letting them drain quickly while you check for leaks below.
It's not uncommon for slip-nut joints to leak slightly. Fixing this usually requires just some minor adjustment. If initial tightening doesn't stop the leak, unscrew the nut, reposition the washer, and re-tighten the nut, making sure it's not cross-threaded.
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List of Partners vendors. Project Overview. Tip If you're planning to replace a standard sink with a deep-basin sink, you may find it necessary to lower the drain outlet in the wall to match the lower height of the new sink drain.
Featured Video. Materials Kitchen drain trap kit Sink drain and strainer assembly for each basin. Tip Make sure to face the trap the correct way, with the sharp bend below the tailpiece. Different Methods for Dishwasher Drain Connections. Related Topics. Show Full Article. Your Privacy Rights. To change or withdraw your consent choices for TheSpruce. At any time, you can update your settings through the "EU Privacy" link at the bottom of any page.
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Learn more If your kitchen sink drain is corroded and leaking, installing a new basket strainer is an easy way to solve the problem. Then, tighten the nut with a basket wrench to secure it in place. Tip: If there is water leaking out of the basket strainer, one of the connections may be loose. Turn off the sink, tighten the brass tailpiece and the plastic connector, and test the water again. For more advice, like how to test your new drain, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers.
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Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Choose a drain assembly kit that fits your sink. A drain assembly kit will contain a basket strainer, locking nut, rubber washer, friction ring, and a brass tailpiece to connect the the drain to the drainpipes.
If your sink has an existing basket strainer, use it as a model to help purchase your new one so you know it will fit. Make sure the tailpiece fits your drainpipes as well, and choose a brass tailpiece so it lasts longer. You can find sink drain assembly kits at your local hardware store, at department stores, and online. Disconnect the drainpipe and remove the existing strainer if there is one. Use a pair of pliers to turn the metal fittings on the drainpipe and then separate it from the tailpiece on the underside of the drain.
Then, unscrew the nut on the underside of the basket strainer with a basket wrench and pull out the strainer from the drain hole at the bottom of the sink. Be careful not to damage the pipes with the pliers when you separate them. Then, use the palms of your hands to roll the putty into a cylindrical rope shape about 4—5 inches 10—13 cm long. Form the rope of putty with an even diameter. Apply the putty to the underside of the lip of the basket. Wrap the putty around the entire basket strainer, pressing it into place.
If the rope of putty is too long, simply pull off the excess length and connect the two ends of the putty. Press the basket into the drain hole at the bottom of the sink. Wipe off the excess putty on the underside of the sink with a cloth.
Use a clean cloth to wipe away the excess putty so the seal is clean and consistent. A little bit of excess putty is fine, but if too much is hanging out of the sides of the basket strainer, it can affect the seal. Fit the rubber washer and friction ring onto the underside of the basket. Slide the black rubber washer over the bottom of the basket strainer. Put the rubber washer on first to create an additional layer of a watertight seal, then the friction ring to protect the washer from the nut.
Screw the nut onto the basket strainer. Take the nut, which looks like a large metal ring, and line the threads up with the threads on the bottom of the basket strainer. Turn the nut clockwise, or to the right, to screw it on. Use needlenose pliers and a basket wrench to tighten the nut. Take a pair of needlenose pliers and grip the slots of the bottom of the strainer to hold the basket still. Fit a basket wrench over the nut and turn it as far as you can to create as tight of a seal as possible.
Remove all of the excess putty so the drain looks clean and consistent and the seal is watertight. Part 2.
Attach a brass tailpiece to the bottom of the basket strainer. Take a brass tailpiece and line up the threads with the threads on the bottom of the basket strainer. Screw on the tailpiece as tightly as you can with your hands.
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